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So I’ve never heard of this being ever a problem and I’ve looked at many forums and videos.

@@MSRWorkshop anytime a magnetic switch closes, it poses a chance to create its own feedback. those air solenoids are magnetic solenoids. while it might never cause a feedback, it could. i will always be willing to throw a 5 cent diode on to even keep the "potential" of destroying a multi c-note controller in check. This is a wikipedia explaining the issue a little better. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flyback_diode

The first thing you’re doing wrong is not using Lightbourn Software that comes with any machine is always going to poor. Get Lyburn and start learning how to use that. It will change the way you laser. Also, you need to make sure that your mirrors are aligned otherwise your cuts will not be precise and then make sure you are using the Z axis focus . But the big thing is Lightburn you must get Lightbourn to really enjoy what you were doing

Thanks for the tip. I’ve actually watched many of his videos and he’s done some seminars at our local Woodcraft. I actually used to work for a number of years. I can’t remember off the top of my hand how he recommends putting bandsaw tires on, but from my personal experience changing a number of tires out hands down the easiest way to replace the tires that is just to take the wheel off . Most of the time it’s just one bolt, which is pretty simple. I absolutely do not agree with any theory that you should soak your tires and boiling water because a lot of times what happens is it makes the rubber more pliable but the instant it cools off, it may not return to its original size.

They will so every year I do a thorough cleaning

Depends on the type of photo but not really. If you’re trying to laser something to make it look photorealistic then getting the settings and Lightbourn to make it look good it’s fairly challenging, but if you’re making outlines of artwork and it’s pretty easy to get set up. But in any case getting photos in to Lightburn is the easy part.. adjusting settings is where the challenge comes in.

@@MSRWorkshop ah ok thanks for the info so its more of playing around and adjusting to get the photo to where is decent or likeable in detail

Glad I could help!

So I’ve never found that bees are a problem because they are not attracted to UV light. And then frogs just eat the dead bugs below. It’s like a free meal for them..

@@MSRWorkshop - I can't even get FLIES to go into the UV lighted bug killer. It's mostly small "light bugs" that hang around/attracted to lights at night. Flies must be to smart for the unit. I only run it during the day when flies are around. In nighttime, I turn it off and put it back on during the daytime.

Yes, very heavy duty.. now the giant stabilizer I think they have possibly made a few changes since I bought mine because I’ve had it for a very long time but like I said in the video, I would’ve put a weld all the way around the on both sides instead of just welding it which would’ve made it more rigid

Look at your lines per inch under your cut settings and see how high it set Also, if you’re using millimeters per second instead of millimeters per minute that will make a difference

Ha ha, good spot 😉

To be truthful, this machine is thousands less than one that has all of this stuff done. And by doing it yourself, you’re actually saving a ton more money. if you look at lasers like thunder lasers, they’re about double what you pay for these. It might be good for someone who wants to do zero upgrades and just have a turnkey machine, but you’re going to be spending much much more. Omtech lasers are fantastic lasers and for not much money you can do the upgrades I did and save thousands.

@@MSRWorkshop I can see that, thank you for the info! 🙂

Yes, the firmer upgrade was terrible. I actually had to call longer because it wasn’t upgrading for me and they just replaced the whole computer board.

Yes, and I bet the upgrading part was the fun !!

Totally

I would use a little bit of double-sided tape and tape it to a nice flat surface say a board that’s been pre-jointed and then just go over it with a sander

@@MSRWorkshop WOW! Never thought of that!! THank you so much!!!!

So what’s going on that’s causing it to not function, right

​@@MSRWorkshop There were issues with the balance settings. Instead of going right when it should, it went left, and vice versa. The laser power wasn't functioning, and it wasn't engraving. In addition to such problems, the main issue is the lack of honesty from the company towards the customer after making promises. Even if the product had no issues, it might not have met my expectations. While many companies allow returns in such processes, Monport does not. I am grateful that I did not purchase a more expensive product. ​ @MSRWorkshop By the way, you're doing great. Thank you for your sharing knowledge and effort

Ha, thanks :)

Sorry about that

Yeah I thought about that but the only problem is that the hack handle raises with the bed, it isn’t stationary. So a hole wouldn’t work 😢

Well…. Not sure. Since I don’t often change blades and keep it with a small 1/8 blade. I have it set up for that and it works well for that. If I did resawing or another demanding job I’m not sure. The fence on the Rikon is definitely better. The dust collection on the jet is better and the blade changes are easier. There are definite pros and cons to both

I think so too!

So if you click on my link under the description, you’ll see the new and improved version where I’ve added a base to it so it can be clamped down. I think, adding the CNC bristles actually disrupts airflow, and it might not work as well

@@MSRWorkshopoh, ok, so a lip to clamp down. I really need slots to allow for clamps, long overdue. I just saw nice trick with strapping stiff wire to the hose to allow it articulate and lock in place. May try something like that.

I’ve never cleaned mine. It’s always come out clean. I fined if you soap and water it to much it strips the oils off and it can stick. I also use oil in my batter. Not sure if you do. also do not use any spray oils

@@MSRWorkshop thank you, I appreciate your advice.

I’m just unplugging it if I need it. If you want to make it semi automatic you can connect it to a smart switch and just turn it on and off via Alexa or some other voice command. Not sure this board has the option of Adding air assist that talks to light burn.

@@MSRWorkshop I sent the Monport Support folks the question. Thought you'd like to see the response:  Here’s your response from Monportlaser Randolph MeederHello, Can an small air compressoe be connected to the air assist switch of the motherboard? Are the air compressors being installed in the K40s available for porchase? Thank you.  Monportlaser Connecting a Small Air Compressor to the Air Assist Switch: Yes, it is possible to connect a small air compressor to the air assist switch of your laser cutter’s motherboard. The air assist feature helps blow away debris and smoke during laser cutting or engraving, resulting in cleaner and more precise cuts. Here are the steps to achieve this: Pressure Switch Wiring: First, you’ll need to wire a pressure switch to your air compressor. The pressure switch monitors the air pressure and controls the compressor’s operation. You can follow a guide like this one to wire the pressure switch correctly. Relay Setup: Next, use a relay to interface between the pressure switch and the air assist switch on your laser cutter’s motherboard. When the air assist is needed (e.g., during cutting or engraving), the relay will activate the compressor. Configure Software: In your laser control software (such as LightBurn), ensure that the air assist feature is enabled. LightBurn can send commands to turn the compressor on and off based on your design layers. Connect the Relay: Connect the relay’s control input (usually low voltage, like 5V or 12V DC) to the air assist output pin on your laser cutter’s motherboard. When the software signals air assist, the relay will switch the compressor on. Power Supply: Finally, power the air compressor separately (usually 230V AC for your Hailea 318 compressor) and ensure it’s safely grounded.View your conversation Your conversation history expires if no reply is sent within 7 days © 2024 Monportlaser

Because I thought this personally looked a bit more stylish instead of utilitarian, and that’s the look that I was going for. I liked the buttons.

@@MSRWorkshopThanks for the review . I have three Desna bomber jackets and of the parkas I think the one you picked was the best .

Plenty of people using monport machines successfully

They work great and are quite powerful and affordable compared to their 40w diode counterpart.

Great to hear !!

Will do!

It will but it’s gonna cycle a lot just because the tank isn’t very big so it’s gonna be running a lot. if that doesn’t bother you then it should be fine. If it does, you’re gonna want to get a much bigger tank.

@@MSRWorkshop Thanks for the quick response, planning on getting the laser and following all the upgrades you have done so far.

Amazon. One of the videos has the link but you can also just search for grommet plugs and they come in a multi pack.

That’s really expensive for that. They must have to custom make them for you.

I saw them on E-bay several at that price.@@MSRWorkshop